Exhibition File – Punk: Chaos to Couture

Punk: Chaos to Couture graphic, from Metropolitan Museum of Art

It is the time of year that fashion historians wait for with anticipation — the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute fashion exhibition. This year’s theme is Punk: Chaos to Couture. Curated by Andrew Bolton, the exhibition design is sure to thrill with sensory overload.

According to the Met’s website, Punk “will examine punk’s impact on high fashion from the movement’s birth in the early 1970s through its continuing influence today. Featuring approximately one hundred designs for men and women, the exhibition will include original punk garments and recent, directional fashion to illustrate how haute couture and ready-to-wear borrow punk’s visual symbols.”

The major themes in the show include New York and London, Clothes for Heroes, Hardware, Bricolage, Graffiti and Agitprop, and Destroy. It’ll look at the DIY aesthetic and the ways the original punk movement inspire designers working today.

I’m actually going to New York this weekend specifically to see the show. I saw Bolton’s AngloMania: Tradition and Transgression in British Fashion exhibition in 2006, and it was over the top. I’m still kicking myself for not finding a way to New York to see his famed Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty show — the 5th most attended exhibition at the Met.

The show opens to the public today and runs until August 14. Some of the reviews are out:

Robin Givhan says that “Even If Punk Can’t Shock, Fashion Still Can.”
Suzy Menkes thinks the exhibition is “Punk Without the Down and Dirty.”
Sasha Frere Jones decries the show as “The Day That Punk Died Again.”

I’m trying to reserve judgement, even though these reviews do not say the most flattering things about Punk. This is not the first time Bolton has been accused of not contextualizing the fashion he exhibits. His shows are not for fashion historian purists. I’ll let you know what I think after this weekend.

Address: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 215 Centre Street, New York, New York
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday 9:30-5:30, Friday-Saturday 9:30-9, Sunday 9:30-5:30
Recommended Admission: adults $25, seniors $17, students $12, members and children under 12 free
Website: www.metmuseum.org/Exhibitions/listings/2013/PUNK?utm_source=homepage&utm_medium=banner&utm_campaign=punk

Riccardo Tisci Costumes a Ballet in Lace and Tulle

I am dying over these images of Givenchy designer Riccardo Tisci’s costumes for the ballet Boléro. The design recently released to the media shows a unisex ballet costume that blurs traditional gender norms.

The ballet costume consists of a skin-tone cat suit embroidered with white lace in the design of a human skeleton and a dress of nude tulle over top. The costumes are supposed to capture both darkness and romanticism.

In Women’s Wear Daily, Tisci said, “Boléro is all about intensity. The music has such an intense feeling. I wanted the dancers to feel naked somehow. They shed several layers as they dance just like the life cycle of animals, or flowers losing their petals. They become these moving skeletons, strong and fragile at the same time.”

Boléro was choreographed by Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui and Damien Jalet for Opéra Garnier in Paris. The artist Marina Abramovic designed the black and suspended mirror panel set and scenography. It runs until June 3.

Style File – Spring Transition

Spring is a tricky season in the Midwest. The temperature jumps from day to day mean that I can sport a tank top one day, and a light wool coat the next.

I started the process of pulling out my warmer-weather clothes from storage and putting away my cold-weather things. It’s always a trip down memory lane to pull out my clothes storage box and rediscover things I haven’t worn for six months. It definitely decreases my urges to run out and buy a whole new seasonal wardrobe.

But I do have one new purchase I’m giddy about. More than a month ago, I found this classic pink boucle jacket by Chanel in a local consignment shop. While it was a major deal at just under $500 (my best guess is that the original price was at least a couple thousand dollars), it was still out of my budget. But I waited and waited.

Finally two weekends ago the price dropped under $300. Still very expensive, it’s a piece that I will be able to wear my whole life — timeless style and the quality of materials and craftsmanship is unlike anything I own. It fits perfectly. The morning the price went down, I was there first thing to buy it. Like I said, I’m giddy about it.

I think it would look lovely with a cream or navy dress or skirt. How would you style it?

Friday File – Sick Week

I’ve been sick all week. I’ve been slowly getting better, but I still have a bit of a persistent cough. Consequently, this week hasn’t been the usual, since I’ve been floating through the days hopped up on decongestant.

I haven’t been online as much as usual this week either, which means I only have two links for you. But nonetheless, I think they are both quite good. Enjoy and stay healthy!

Cathy Horyn walks us through her spring shopping agenda. Her penchant is for luxury designer garments (Celine, Marni, Dries Van Noten, Givenchy, etc.), a world of fashion I normally enjoy looking at, but have no experience shopping. It’s interesting to read her debate on current designer prices — some of which seem too high or right on target in her opinion. She peppers in her reflection with a few contemporary designer items (Opening Ceremony, alice + olivia, Rebecca Taylor). Of course pretty much all are above my pay grade, aside from the Uniqlo and H&M she mentions.

My friend Kirsty introduced the blog Empty Emptor to me this week via a post on a Net-A-Porter magazine article. First, the post itself was a brilliant breakdown of how the fashion industry uses language to convince a consumer that she’ll be happier for buying clothes. But second, where has this blog been all my life?!!!!!!!! (Yes, all those exclamation points are necessary.) The author, Jess, is a British post-doctoral cognitive neuroscientist whose blog aims to “analyse consumption, consumerism and consumer behaviour (in a very modest and inexpert way) through the lens of lifestyle, clothing, and my own wardrobe in particular.” Be still my beating heart, I think I’ve found my new favorite blog.

Exhibition File – New at the Museum of Chinese in America

The Museum of Chinese in America opens two exhibitions tomorrow that add to the dialogue on modern fashion. Both focus on Chinese or Chinese Americans and their relationships to fashion and dress, which are often overlooked in the broader discussion.

Front Row: Chinese American Designers graphic, from Museum of Chinese in America

First, Front Row: Chinese American Designers “features the unique visions of 16 designers” in an exhibition curated by guest curator Mary Ping. It looks at social and cultural forces that gave rise to Chinese American designers in New York. The show explores two waves, the first in the 1980s, which included Anna Sui, Vera Wang, and Vivienne Tam, and a second, recent one that includes Derek Lam and Phillip Lim. Of note are the range of aesthetics and entrepreneurial paths in this group. It will be interesting to see the breadth of differences between these designers despite their common background.

Shanghai Glamour: New Women 1910s-40s exhibition graphic, from Museum of Chinese in America

The second show is Shanghai Glamour: New Women 1910s-40s exploring fashion, women, and the city’s identity during the early 20th century. The way women dressed during this period was emblematic of modern life — changing social, political, and gender roles were revealed. This exhibition was guest curated by Mei Mei Rado.

Both exhibitions run until September 29.

And don’t miss Eric Wilson’s Front Row column in the New York Times this week. He highlights both shows.

Address: Museum of Chinese in America, 215 Centre Street, New York, New York
Hours: Tuesday-Wednesday 11-6, Thursday 11-9, Friday-Sunday 11-6
Admission: adults $10, seniors and students $5, members and children under 12 free
Website: mocanyc.org/exhibitions/upcoming_exhibits/front_row_chinese_american_designers + mocanyc.org/exhibitions/upcoming_exhibits/shanghai_glamour

Stylish in the Rain

The saying goes, April showers bring May flowers. Sure is fitting for Chicago with the deluge of rain we’ve been having here.

I dug up this 1956 video on umbrellas via the British Pathé archive last night. In it a group of British umbrella makers put on quite the show of whimsy and style. Not sure many of the umbrellas would be very practical in the rain though.

Which was your favorite?

Style File – Sample Sale Score

Chicago doesn’t have a ton of sample sales because the number of designers working here is rather slim. Although, we luckily have Elmidae, designed by Abigail Glaum-Lathbury.

I’ve talked about Abigail’s work before on here. She’s a friend that I met when I was in grad school. Whenever I wear Elmidae, my coworkers demand to know who the designer is or I get stopped on the street (this literally happened last week).

So I was super excited to hit Elmidae’s sample sale two Saturday’s ago. A sample sale is a way for a designer to sell off prototypes and old inventory. I got to Abigail’s studio in the early afternoon, but so much of her stock was already sold. Need to get there first thing next time!

I fell in love with the skirt above. It has great movement and is made of beautiful fabric — a floral print attached to a blue and gold woven textile to create a double-faced fabric.

Last Monday I paired my new Elmidae skirt with my vintage black silk tee and black Nine West pumps. I found the necklace in a shop called Muse and was told that it was designed by a former employee. Wish I had gotten her name.

One of the things I love most about Abigail’s work is the innovation of the pattern pieces (in other words, the blueprint used to create the garment). The pattern for this particular skirt is genius — it’s basically a rectangle folded over on itself with a hole cut out for the waist. It looks like separate pieces to create the tiers, but it’s really all one piece, aside from the waistband. Genius!

photos by Travis Haughton – Wasabi Photography

Friday File – Needing a Break

This week has been tough for the whole country, and so much tragedy takes a real toll. We need a respite from the news. There’s nothing I can say that can magically erase everything that has happened this week, but I am hoping things can turn around for all of us soon. Stay safe.

Some links from this week that can hopefully bring you a little break:

folding lamp by Issey Miyake, from Architizer Blog

Of course Issey Miyake created folding lamps made of recycled plastic. The man’s 2D to 3D-design concept cannot be contained to fashion.

I can’t believe the word fashionista has only been around for 20 years! Writer Stephen Fried coined the term in a biography of the model Gia Carangi. He was looking for a term that quickly referred to all the types of people who work in the fashion industry because he was sick of spelling out all their roles.

This article on the eight hour workday and modern capitalism really struck a chord with me. This theory that our work/life balance was designed so that we would be the ideal consumers is both disturbing and fascinating. It’s made me feel a lot more conscious of how I’m spending my spare time and my money since I read it.

Most of the time I wish they would just let old fashion design houses alone. There are too many revivals. Let the designers’ legacies stand, and don’t taint them by hiring a new designer to attempt to fill their shoes.

This is exactly how I’ve felt since it was announced that the house of Schiaparelli was going to be relaunched. Schiaparelli was an artist and extremely unique. I couldn’t imagine anyone reworking her designs and having anywhere near the same impact. But two days ago word came out that Christian Lacroix is going to design an haute couture collection for Schiaparelli. You know, I think that could actually work!

Exhibition File – Walter Van Birendonck

A couple of weeks ago I heard him speak in Chicago, and now Walter Van Birendonck is the focus of a recently opened exhibition at Dallas Contemporary. The show, Walter Van Birendonck: Lust Never Sleeps – Silent Secrets, is an art installation of his winter 2012/2013 and summer 2013 fashion collections.

Van Birendonck is an avant-garde menswear designer. He hails from Belgian, and is known as one of the Antwerp Six, a group of desigerns who graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp during the 1980s.

In the show, the two most recent collections are installed in an open gallery on round, white platforms. Van Birendonck’s winter 2012/2013 collection called Lust Never Sleeps was inspired by Tahitian voodoo. In an interview with Fashionista, Van Birendonck described the collection saying,”I wanted to create a future dandy silhouette almost, but with a very strong tension. That’s why I was using these masks inspired by Papua New Guinea and the canes — a lot of elements to create a tense atmosphere.”

The summer 2013 collection, which is currently in stores, refers “to what’s going on the social networks today, that everything is so easily spread and there is no privacy anymore. Images are taken from everybody, they are sent immediately, also you can’t keep anything secret anymore.” Van Birendonck went on to add, “It’s also referring to secret societies — their dress codes and the hidden underground feeling of secret societies. The collection from summer is also formal inspired, like formal clothing with a twist and with my typical ingredients.”

Walter Van Birendonck: Lust Never Sleeps – Silent Secrets runs until August 18.

Address: Dallas Contemporary, 161 Glass Street, Dallas, Texas
Hours: Tuesday- Saturday 11-6, Sunday 12-5
Admission: free
Website: dallascontemporary.org/currentexhibit.html

Miyake’s Newest Innovation

Are you ready to have your mind blown? Mine was when I first started looking into Issey Miyake’s new line, 132 5.

Issey Miyake is a Japanese fashion designer who has been working with experimental design since the 1970s. And he still is coming up with ground-breaking design as evidenced with 132 5.

In the new line, Miyake worked with an in-house research and development team, Research Lab, led by textile engineer Manabu Kikuchi and pattern engineer Sachiko Yamamoto. They collaborated with Jun Mitani, an origami inventor and computer scientist.

From Miyake’s website: “The process by which the clothing is made is groundbreaking, using a mathematical algorithm: first, a variety of three-dimensional shapes are conceived in collaboration with a computer scientist; then, these shapes are folded into two dimensional forms with pre-set cutting lines that determine their finished shape; and finally, they are heat-pressed, to yield folded shirts, skirts, dresses etc.”

We have a 132 5. shirt in the fashion study collection I manage (the gradated coral to white one above), and it is amazing to watch it unfold into life. Everyone who sees it flat can hardly believe that it is indeed a garment that can be worn on the upper body.

I frequently get asked where the name 132 5. comes from. The Design Museum explains it well, “one piece of fabric, a three-dimensional shape reduced to two, and the fifth dimension, which Miyake describes as the moment the garment is worn and comes to life.”

Additionally, the fabric used is made out of recycled plastic (PET) into polyester. The process is said to reduce energy consumption and CO2 emissions about 80 percent.

Last year 132 5. won the Design Museum’s Fashion Design of the Year award. It beat Kate Middleton’s wedding dress by Sarah Burton.