Style File – Sweet Chambray

Today’s style post is short and sweet. On Friday I wore this chambray dress that I’ve had since last spring.

When I first bought it, I would leave the top button undone, but lately I’ve been buttoning it up to the neck. I’m torn whether this dress is too young or not. I think buttoning it to the top makes it a little less sweet.

Although this dress is also impossible to keep wrinkle free. It’s part cotton, part linen, so it seems like a lost cause. But it’s surprising well made for a Target dress.

What do you guys think?

Friday File – Mid-Semester

Another busy Friday ends another busy week. The fashion study collection I manage is getting a much better workout this semester than it did in the fall, which is great, but also a bit tiring.

I’m spending this morning prepping for a lecture on how fashion theory and history can be applied in interdisciplinary ways for a freshman intro course next week. I’m kind of excited about it. If you’ve been reading here for any length of time, you’ll know that I value fashion far above fashion just for fashion’s sake. It is a product of its time and culture, and I really enjoying exposing students in other disciplines to the collection. You can see their minds working as they find connections amongst their own fields and the garments in my collection.

Now let’s get to the links:

The very smart Raquel Laneri directed me to a fashion shoot by Eugenio Recuenco — it’s an homage to Picasso. Look at the series of images in the second row from the top. Which is timely, because there is a Picasso exhibition at the Art Institute of Chicago right now, so I’ve got Picasso on the brain. Eugenio’s photos are rather clever, and whoever did the styling, the makeup, and the hair did a fantastic job capturing the essence of Picasso’s paintings.

Did you know the nuclear bomb has helped experts identify forgeries more easily? It has to do with the creation of isotopes that didn’t exist before 1945 when the first nuclear bomb was detonated. Scientists can test the paint of a work to determine if those isotopes were present in the paint when a painting was created, and, if they are, then scientists know the painting had to be created after 1945. Not so easy to pass off a new painting as an old master’s now.

The First Bangs will grace the cover of Vogue next month. I’m picking up my copy as soon as it hits the shelves.

Two Nerdy Girls had a most fantastic piece this week on “How Many Tradespeople Does It Take to Dress an 18th C. Lady?” With the help of the Janea Whitacre, mistress of millinery and mantua maker at Colonial Williamsburg, they compiled a list of every person involved in making the items that an upperclass woman wore — those who made her dress and its embellishments to her hair to her accouterments.

Have a great weekend!

Exhibition File – Currently at The Museum at FIT

Today I have a master exhibition post. Because there are three fashion exhibitions at the Museum at FIT right now, this is not the time to skip it if you are in NYC between now and mid-April.

First in the Fashion & Textile History Gallery, Fashion and Technology investigates technological advancements in both fashion design and production. The exhibition covers 250 years, including the Industrial Revolution that brought us the spinning jenny, jacquard loom, and sewing machine.

Technological advancements in materials — rubber and plastic — and digital technology — 3-D printing, computer aided design, and sewable electronics — play a huge role in the show. Technology has influenced design as well, whether in the form of art deco or space age styles.

Fashion and Technology runs until May 8.

Then in the Special Exhibitions Gallery, you can indulge your passion with shoes in Shoe Obsession. More than 150 examples of extraordinary shoes will leave you gawking in awe. There are some crazy styles in this show.

Shoe Obsession runs until April 13.

And lastly, don’t miss Boots: The Height of Fashion in the Gallery FIT. More than 20 pairs of boots examine themes about sex, rebellion, status. The exhibition looks at how boots grew in popularity historically. It was curated by students from the Fashion and Textile Studies masters program.

Boots: The Height of Fashion closes April 6.

Address: Museum at FIT, Seventh Avenue at 27 Street, New York, New York

Hours: Tuesday-Friday 12-8, Saturday 10-5

Admission: free

Website: fitnyc.edu/336.asp

The First Vogue

Have you ever wondered what the first issue of Vogue looked like?

Vogue cover, December 17, 1892, from The Vogue Archive (subscription required)

Here it is, published December 17, 1892 for ten cents. The cover featured an illustration of a debutante by A. B. Wenzel.

I love the ladies lounging in the masthead. One is reading, presumably a Vogue, and the other is primping in front of a hand-held mirror. I guess maybe both are indicators about what Vogue can help a lady with — give her something to read and advice on how to improve her looks.

Style File — Birthday Leather

For some time, one of the items on my dream wardrobe wish list has been a leather jacket. For the last year I’ve kept my eye out, but I hadn’t seen anything I thought would work with my short torso, was within a reasonable budget, and fit my aesthetic requirements.

For my birthday, I asked my dad for one. When he said yes I upped my hunt. My preference was for an asymmetrical moto style. I also liked the quilted details I was seeing on leather jackets these days. And I wanted a practical jacket — one I could wear when it was chilly, not something purely for show.

And then I found a jacket from Asos.com that looked like it would fit the bill. I wasn’t sure if it was cropped enough for my short waist, but when it arrived, it was!

I love the quilting on the shoulders, sides, and hem. The jacket has a hint of a boxy shape, but the back is tailored enough so that the jacket doesn’t overwhelm my frame.

The jacket has great zippers on both sleeves too. I think that’s what makes a good leather jacket, the details.

I need to weatherproof it asap. Maybe leather is a little unorthodox for a spring jacket, but I can’t wait to wear it all the time now that the weather seems to be warming up above freezing.

(Thank you Dad!)

photos by Travis Haughton – Wasabi Photography

Friday File – Weird Week

This week turned out to be very weird to me, and everyone at work agrees. Tuesday, we had both a false emergency alarm go off across the entire campus and a snow storm that shut down the school. We are approaching mid semester, which is always a busy time, so the unexpected disruptions did nothing for productiveness.

But I’m hoping to shake it off with my best friends this weekend. They are coming to Chicago for a ladies’ weekend, and I can’t wait!

Here are the most interesting things I found online during this peculiar week:

These photos don’t picture cutting-edge historical fashion, but they show life inside a castings factory in Derby, England during the 1920s and 1930s. I think it’s just as valuable to learn about what the working class wore as the elite.

Ever wonder how museums mount garments so beautifully during exhibitions? The best shows require custom mannequins for each dress. Often this is achieved by building out the form on an existing mannequin. Here’s a peek of my friend Emma Denny at work behind the scenes at the Chicago History Museum.

Christina Brinkley of the Wall Street Journal cuts through the fat to break down the Fall 2013 fashion shows.

Is Vogue kidding with this article? “How to Not-Wear a Jacket” is practically Diana Vreeland-esque. But apparently Fashionista agrees that this is the cool way to dress for winter. Personally, I think this is just a way for fashion insiders to one up the masses who are edging into their territory. The wannabes don’t have the financial resources, but you can bet these women pictured are taking cabs so they don’t need coats anyway.

New Balance is exploring the use of 3-D printing to customize shoes for pro athletes. Sensors track each foot’s motion and how much pressure is created at different points in order to print a plate for the shoe’s sole. This is expected to enhance performance. Eventually New Balance anticipates this will end up at the consumer level.

Athletic shoes seem perfectly matched to 3-D printing, but can you imagine other possibilities in footwear? I’m thinking of a high-heel sole created specifically for your foot! 3-D printing could reduce painful pressure points and make heels safer and more comfortable to wear — customized to each person’s feet!

Exhibition File – Hunt and Habit

Hunt and Habit exhibition graphic from The Charleston Museum

I’ve always been curious about traditional hunting attire, but have not yet found the time to research it properly. Its nuances have influenced fashion throughout time, and its details are a mix of function and aesthetics.

The exhibition Hunt and Habit at The Charleston Museum shines a light on 19th century hunting apparel. Riding habits, hats, accessories for both men and women are contextualized with guns used in local hunts, a side saddle, and equestrian fashion plates.

Hunt and Habit closes on April 21 in the Textile Gallery.

Address: The Charleston Museum, 360 Meeting Street, Charleston, South Carolina
Hours: Monday-Saturday 9-5, Sunday 1-5
Admission: adults $10, children 3-12 years $5, children 2 and under free
Website: www.charlestonmuseum.org/hunt-and-habit

New to the E-Scene

Lately it seems I hear about a new fashion e-commerce site all the time. Some are misses, but there are a few that I really love — Of a Kind and True&Co. come to mind right away. Companies like Everlane intrigue me, although I’ve never purchased from them myself. I like the way these sites are connecting consumers more directly with products and sharing stories about the people who create them.

Double Layered Chiffon Maxi Skirt by Shelby Steiner

A couple weeks ago I heard about a brand new one that’s based here in Chicago. It’s called Stock Manufacturing Company, and its business model is like a Kickstarter for fashion.

I spoke with Jim Snediker from Stock by email, and he told me, “We knew we wanted to create a premium made in the USA clothing company, we wanted to design and manufacture it ourselves, and we wanted to sell directly to customers, without traditional retail markups and with full transparency.”

shirt, pants, and tie by Stock Manufacturing Company

There are two ways garments and accessories are produced and are sold by Stock. Products labeled “inStock” are designed and manufactured in house. They are available for immediately for delivery. Items with the “& Stock” label are collaborations with outside designers. Consumers vote with their dollars during a two-week period by purchasing garments they would like to see manufactured. Once a garment meets a minimum number of orders, Stock manufactures the product, sends it out to the customers, and the designer receives a commission.

I asked Jim how Stock’s location in Chicago might affect their business rather than being located in a more traditional fashion metropolis like New York. He said, “Being a manufacturer out of Chicago, we are much more interested in making high quality, well fitting, stylish pieces of functional clothing than we are in ‘fashion.’ We don’t really immerse ourselves in the runway show/couture world. We identify much more closely with manufacturers and craftsmen (or craftswomen) than we do with ‘fashionistas.’”

Vintage Camera Print Blouse by Black Cap and Bib

I’ll be keeping my eye on Stock. I like its dedication to returning the garment industry to the United States and focusing on high-quality pieces instead of disposable fast fashion.

photos courtesy of Stock Manufacturing Company

Style File – Velvet Burn-out

Crystal tee, from Club Monaco

I was intrigued when I came across the top above on Club Monaco’s website. The burn-out velvet top was on sale and there was an extra limited-time discount, so I decided the deal was worth it and bought it.

The texture and colors make it a treat to wear in different ways. The black silk velvet is on a ground of sheer pink, purple, beige, and black chiffon.

Burn-out velvet, also known as façonné velvet, is a pile fabric with a pattern created by burning selected areas of pile fibers with chemicals. Most often, as is the case with my shirt, the pile is made of a natural fiber — mine is silk. The ground is resistant to those chemicals and normally is a man-made fiber — mine is rayon.

Last Monday I wore it with a black tank and my favorite dusty rose skirt. The skirt brought out more of the pink tones in the top. Instead of my normal nylons, I wore a pair of DKNY tights in black noir and my everyday Pour la Victore flats. I accessorized with the gold-colored, linking hoops necklace.

I had a number of visitors at work that day. One class came to see three-dimensional embellishments, and it was fun to pull some heavily textured pieces of embroidery, feathers, faux flowers, sequins, and lace. I didn’t realize it at the time, but my shirt is made of a three-dimensional textile.

Then on Saturday, I met my friend Amy for brunch. When you have a favorite new piece of clothing, don’t you find excuses to wear it more often? I know I do. I went more casual for brunch with a black cotton cardigan, Citizens of Humanity Arley jeans, black tank, and Loeffler Randall mini lynx rain boots. I’ve been leaving the zippers at each side seam half zipped to fit my hips a little better.

Friday File – Busy Week

This was a long and busy week for me. In the fashion study collection I manage, I had eight tours, class visitors, and requests to use garments in classes this week. I slightly underestimated how much that is, and I learned that maybe that is a tad too much to book in one week even if I love doing it. Transitioning between appointments isn’t the easiest thing to do and only goes smoothly if I have a student worker to help.

And now for my favorite things around the web this week:

When I grow up, I want to be Judith Clark. Lady is a fashion exhibition genius. That is all.

I’m pretty happy that the Smithsonian’s fashion blog, Threaded, is continuing its series on the flapper. This time, learn about the bob.

I’ve always been a bit skeptical of Fashion’s Night Out. According to Business of Fashion, the night was more of a money-sucking circus than an economy-boosting shopping event, and it is going on “hiatus” in the United States.

When I saw that Paola Antonelli of MoMA was on Stephen Colbert on Wednesday, I knew I had to watch. Paola is MoMA’s Architecture and Design senior curator. I quoted her in my masters thesis a number of times for her take on how to exhibit design in a museum. Watch and develop your own girl crush on her.